An Appetite for Adventure

Waking up, we finally saw where we were — in a hundred-year old mansion tucked amidst citrus groves, rows of tomato plants as tall as Yao Ming, waterfalls of pink flowers and lush greenery spilling from every crack. Soft, cool breezes swept into our room and tickled the tall ceilings, inspiring perma-smiles on our faces from the second our eyes opened.

The Archodico is an agrotouristic residence, a hotel/lodging on the grounds of a working farm, located in the Kampos section of Chios. A bit of quick background on the island: Lying most easterly in Greece and incredibly close to Cesme, Turkey (hence why we stopped here), Chios’s history differs from the majority of the Greek isles. A major trading site for the Genoese, the island Byzantine towns kept up by the merchant-traders cover the island. Invaders from Asia minor continuously battered the island, including the Ottomans and, most recently, the Turks, who committed a number of tragedies — including burning thousands alive in churches — while trying to quell unrest among the native population. After becoming part of modern Greece, Chios boomed as a shipping center, with many magnates still calling the island home (or at least frequently docking their yachts there).

Because of its location and its reputation as less “Greek” architecturally-speaking, the island sees fewer tourists than its more popular Aegean friends, and those that do make the journey are usually Greek and come in July and August. Therefore, we enjoyed a break from the American onslaught and a gloriously Greek experience. Chios, I am utterly in love with you.

Back to the day: After an Archodico breakfast consisting of homebaked bread, fresh squeezed OJ from the farm’s orange trees, eggs from the local chickens, ham and cheese sandwiches and cheese (mastelo) that mysteriously and hilariously squeaked when chewed, we walked the 1.5 hours into Chios Town, exploring the backroads of Kampos on the way. Kampos, in its heyday and even a bit today, was a haven for nobleman, where they erected their mansions behind high-walled streets. The architecture combines Byzantine, Ottoman, Genoese, Venetian and Classical styles, and transports wanderers back centuries. With few vehicles and no tourists, besides us, we lost ourselves (figuratively and literally) in the winding Kampos lanes, marveling at the red and yellow rocks lining our way.

The long walk made us realize we needed a car to really explore the island, and we set about getting one. On this trip, we learned that Spain isn’t the only place to take a siesta. Italy takes an afternoon break called a pausa and Grecians indulge in a similar custom, the mesimerianos ipnos. Unfortunately, we went in search of a vehicle in the middle of this break, and therefore settled for some sustenance instead. On Let’s Go’s recommendation, we dined at To Byzantio, a small, family-run shop featuring a lunch buffet of local specialties, including Greek meatballs, stuffed aubergines and stewed rabbit. We tried the two former dishes, in addition to an orzo and meat plate, and stumbled overstuffed into the sunshine.

Chios Town is simultaneously quaint and bustling. Stores nuzzle up against each other and motos zoom around corners in the crammed cobblestoned back streets. The main street along the port packs in cafe after bar after cafe after restaurant, all chic and inviting with comfy couches and sidewalk tables parked under umbrellas; the perfect setting for people watching. But the only thing we could watch was what everyone was drinking.

The omnipresence of the Greek “frappé” is something unparalleled by any refreshment anywhere in the world. Every single Greek person sitting at a cafe was drinking one. No beers. No Coca-Cola. Only, and always, frappé. We found out why the next day — it’s pretty darn tasty and crackiliciously caffeinated. The beverage is concocted simply enough: Take some freeze-dried Nescafe coffee crystals, mix with milk, sugar water and ice, and shake vigorously. Try it at home, kids!

Back to the day: We grabbed some wheels and hit the road for Chios’s main attractions. Rolling hills set against a rich blue sky fell and rose with each sloping curve. Our car was our time machine. We rolled into Pyrgi, whose black and white decorated buildings dazzle the eyes with their trippy patterns.

Pyrgi, in the central south of the island, is part of the Mastichohoria, villages that derive their main income from the mighty mastic plant. The plant produces a sticky resin (like sap) that is used in everything from chewing gum to hand cream and has been praised for its healthy healing properties. The trees take patience: Cultivating a single tree will take 3 years before it is able to produce mastic. The sap tastes a bit like licorice. I speak from experience: Being adventurous, Sean and I stuck some in our mouthes. Here is what a tree and the mastic look like:

After Pyrgi, we went to the Cave of Olympi, a cavern that is still alive and growing, and wasn’t explored until 1985. While it was a nice respite from the heat, a strange, talkative and photo-happy German wore down our tour guide with ridiculous questions and excessive lingering. Afterwards, we made it down to Olympus beach, only to find it was way too windy and chilly to enjoy. At least we got a few good pictures.

Tired, we grabbed some nibbles for a picnic dinner on the sunset terrace at the Archodico. Armed with feta, olives, chips, eggplant and garlic dip, cucumbers, beer, Fanta, Coca-Cola Light and Turkish delights (my favorite), we had one of the nicest meals of our trip. The only thing missing was tsaziki, the traditional Greek dip of cucumber, garlic and yogurt. It took all my might to convince Sean they wouldn’t sell it at the grocery store because Greeks would never buy it pre-made. And low and behold, while we were finishing up, the lovely wife of the hotel owner came up and set down some tsaziki in front of us.

Content to spend the night relaxing, we watched Raiders of the Lost Ark and fell asleep oh so happy.

[08.06.03] Chios Day 1