An Appetite for Adventure

Athens: Thousands of Years in Three Hours

Back on a ferry, my last of this trip. The Greek ferries rival small cruise ships, especially to the wealther destinations in the Cyclades. Unfortunately, the prices also reflect this, and my crappy NesCafe frappe costs me $5. I needed it though; this day was going to be a long one. Up at 7:30 to catch the 9AM ferry, Athens in the afternoon and evening, and then a flight to Tel Aviv, Israel, leaving at 2:20AM. Oof.

We pulled into Piraeus at 3PM, and I jetted into Athens for some sightseeing, first dropping my pack at a left luggage shop. Since both the Acropolis and left luggage closed at 7:30, I needed to burn some major tourism fuel and pack in the major sights very quickly. Liek Naples, everyone told me I would hate Athens; it’s dirty, crowded, loud, I was told. And like Naples, I didn’t think the city was that bad. Yes, there was a lot of graffiti and traffic, but there was a lot of energy in the quarters I explored — Syndagma, Monastriraki and Plaka — and I would definitely consider a longer stay.

Still experiencing the heat that blanketed Naxos, except now exacerbated by the concrete and steel of city structures, I did everything in my power to stay hydrated as I climbed the sun baked hill to the top of the Acropolis. The reward was witnessing the magnificence of one of the world’s greatest ruins. The acropolis was originally a public area under Mycenaean rule. However, in the 12th century BC, the city elite converted the site into a mainly religious domain. The Parthenon, an architectural masterpiece with it’s slightly bulging columns and meticulously mathematical construction, is the pièce de résistance. It really is incredible to think that thousands of years after their construction, we are still able to gaze upon these gorgeous structures.

I bounded down to the Agora, the public meeting place for ancient Athenians. While the ruins were in worse condition than the Acropolis, the Agora features the meeting place of the original Senate. I could almost feel the ghosts of Greek philosophers wandering the grounds, as they used to lecture and debate in the Agora.

Drained from the sun and intense sightseeing, I wandered back to Syndgama square — the main city plateia, or square — and right into a music festival, Music Day. And here I was trying to think how I would kill 5 hours lugging my pack around! I pulled up a grass seat and enjoyed live music and free WiFi as day slipped into night.

Getting to the airport was not as lucky. Greece, like other European nations, refuses to leap into the 21st century with the convenience of credit cards, and “cash only” is a common slogan even in places where one should be able to use a card. The subway, for example. Thinking the trip to the airport was only as much as a regular subway ticket, I had carefully planned out my money withdrawals to avoid extra bank fees. The airport trip was actually more expensive and I didn’t have enough cash. Although there are brand spankin’ new ticket machines everywhere, NONE of them take credit card! Even the window would not take a card, and I was forced to take out another $30 since that’s the minimum at ATMs. Once again, I am convinced NYC is the most convenient city in the world.

The troubles didn’t cease there, as my contact decided to float up into the nether regions of my eyeball. Of course, this had to happen once I got on the train, forcing me to transfer trains in permawink, start crying (to try to flush out the contact and because my dust and sun oil caked fingers hurt like a bitch when I stuck them in my eye) and then eventually gross out the entire train by having to take out my contacts in the middle of the car. Once at the airport, the flight desk wasn’t even open yet. After dragging my huge pack all around the departures hall, I settled down for a piece of pizza … that cost $9! Yes, $9. I was so hungry and frustrated at this point (not to mention had all those spare Euros thanks to the subway), that I bought it anyway. And even considered buying another.

Checking in, a huge group od Greek old biddies were milling about for the same flight, undoubtedly on their final pilgrimage in hopes of scoring a nice spot through the pearly gates. I snuck in before them in line, only to be told I had to pay a change fee at another counter across the hall, to which I had to lug my bag again. I think that was the last inconvenience, but I didn’t really care at this point. I had become so Zen traveling alone. I realized that when I don’t have someone to get worked up at or complain to, then I’ll just deal and life is more pleasant. Obviously, I’m hoping to carry this over into when I’m actually with others.

[08.06.20] Athens

June 23, 2008 - Posted by piegirl | Uncategorized | $9 pizza, acropolis, agora, athens, athens airport, eye care, luggage, music day greece